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SCCA/IT rules allow for a spoiler to be
attached to the bumper cover. It may not extend beyond the fender opening. And, may not be
lower than the rim. |
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For us, that allowed the spoiler to extend about 4"
from the groove at the bottom of the stock bumper. We could probably go lower. But, we
plan to lower the car with Koni's someday. And, we still want to be able to get it on a
trailer. |
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To prototype the shape of the spoiler, we cut white
posterboard into 4" tall strips that are each about 4-8" long. We taped these
one at a time (starting in the middle) to the groove and then to each other. This allowed
us to have a shape that flared outwards a bit instead of being perfectly vertical. |
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Once the posterboard was finished, we removed the entire
strip from the car. It ended up looking like an elongated smile with very little curve.
It's amazing how much flare you can achieve with a slight curve. |
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The posterboard was then used to create an identical piece
with Masonite (from Home Depot). We then attached this to the bumper cover with a few bolts.
This allowed us to validate the shape before performing the final cuts. |
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The Masonite fit great! It had a nice shape and a reasonable
flare. The curve around the corners fit much better than we expected and didn't require
any changes to the template. |
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We acquired an 8x4' piece of .250" HD Polyethelyne from a local Plastic
wholesaler (Laird). It was around $50. One piece could make multiple spoilers but only one
splitter. |
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We cut laid the Masonite template onto the Polyethelyne and
used a skill saw to make the cut. This produces tons of plastic shavings so wear a mask
and goggles. |
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We attached the Spoiler to the race car using 24 button
head bolts spaced at 4" intervals. One the backside, we used washers and nylocks to
hold it in place. It would be better to use Dzus fasteners but we didn't have any. Plus we
need to engineer a bracket system for the fasteners. For now, it's permanent. |
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The IT rules don't allow the spoiler to be seen from
above. We decided it would be easier to attach the splitter and cut the shape with the car
on the ground. |
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We a square piece of Polyethelyne as we were feeling brave
and didn't want to make a template this time. The approx demensions are 20" x
60" We did need to cut a small square on the backside to account for the header
secondaries and the engine support brace. |
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We used a floor jack and some plyboard to position the
splitter. Once it was in place, we drew a line representing the forward edge of the
spoiler. Each bracket was attached about 3/16" behind this line. |
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We attached 24 L brackets with button head bolts, washers,
and nylocks. Each L bracket needed a slight bend to it. The center ones need more and the
sides needed less. This was fun! |
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We then attached the splitter to the spoiler. There is no
elegant way to do this. We started at one end. We drilled a hole and attached it with a
button head bolt. We then moved to the next one. We did this across the entire front of
the car in a zipper-like fashion. Long-skinny arms are a must. |
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One it was completely attached, we used some bolts to holt
the trailing edge to the underside of the car. The bolt locations were basically the inner
fenderwell and the enging support. |
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Once everything was attached, we gazed at our work and
hoped that we didn't need to remove it in a hurry or ever. The method of attachment
doesn't lend itself to this. |
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The car was then placed on the ground and moved to a level
surface. We used a level to mark the outline of the bumper cover on the splitter. We then
attached all of these points into a nice smooth curve. The, we used a skill saw to cut the
splitter in the outline of the bumper. |
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The trailing support bolts were about 1.5" above the
leading edge of the splitter. Thus, we hoped for a slight vacuum. Who knows. |
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We then used sandpaper to rought up the Polyethelyne and
give it a duller finishe. We also sanded the edges to give it a nicer (less sharp) shape. |
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Time to gaze at the finished product. |